I was told by
the host
of my camp in Kenya that South Luangwa was one
of the best parks in all
of Africa and that I was traveling
there at
the right time. “It’s going to be hot…but it is worth it.” Ralph told me. He was right. Even though we did not see thousands
of wildebeest and zebra in migration,
the variety
of wildlife was more numerous. Especially in
the variety
of birds.
“You know, if Yuki was with us we would not be bypassing all
these birds.” I turn my head back to Scott and replied, “I was thinking
the same thing.” Yuki, a good friend
of both
of ours,
was on my mind today and I had wished she was with us, sharing this
experience. In all my life, our friend Yuki has always loved birds;
Whatever
the distance, she could tell us what type
of bird we were viewing. For Yuki, and any bird lover like her, this place would be paradise. On
the o
ther hand, we were looking for big cats so her presence may have gotten in
the way
of our mission as we did not stop
often to see our fea
thered friends.
We did stop a while to view a fish eagle, which looks much like a bald eagle and
the national bird
of the United States. We also spent a time observing a large group
of bee eaters who were on migration from Tanzania and Kenya.
The bee eater is a blue, red and yellow bird which migrates to Zambia each year for mating season. It is one
of the most colorful birds I have ever seen.
They make
their homes in
the sides
of the dirt cliffs. We watch as
the baboons crawl along
the dirt attempting to eat
the birds and
their eggs. O
ther birds that would be
of interest
of our friend, and o
ther bird lovers, would be
the black and grey heron, various storks ( including
the saddle-bill and yellow-bill), Egyptian Geese, Sacred Ibis, Hammer Cop, skippers, starlings, weavers, cuckoo and
the pelicans.
The various nests
of the weavers and o
ther birds I know would have also been an interest to my friend.
In addition to birds
there were a greater number
of different types
of animals in South Luangwa. In fact, on
the first morning out, we saw
the same three
of the five “big five” I saw in Kenya:
the cape buffalo, African Elephants, and a pride
of lions.
The were a greater number
of elephants, baboons, vervet monkeys, warthogs and hippos here than in Kenya. In fact,
the elephants regularly came through our camp.
“Watch out for
the elephants and don’t get within thirty meters
of them.”
We were told on our first day. Later that night, I had went back to
our tent to take a shower before dinner.
It had gotten dark but I told
Scott and Gina I would meet
them in
the self catering kitchen midway through camp. Self catering was a bit more
of a challenge because a previous camper did not store fruit properly and a elephant ripped
off
the door and and destroyed
the refrigerator
the previous night. Still visible was
the crack in
the cement wall
of the kitchen
the elephant had left behind.
They had replaced
the door but
the refrigerator would not be replaced for a few days. So we had to store our food at
the main kitchen on
the o
ther side
of camp.
I followed my guide to
the kitchen. We turned
the corner and 20 meters away was a elephant just outside
the door. I could see Scott and Gina busily working away. “Are my friends aright?” “Yes,
the is a guard near. But we need to go this way.” We headed right, away from
the kitchen, towards
the main
lodge. “I don’t really need to eat tonight.” I responded. Thinking I
would just go to bed without dinner. “No. It will be just fine. Come
this way.” I followed but looking behind
the I saw
the elephant’s truck reach toward
the screen door
of the kitchen.
We made a wide circle around
the area and came back from behind
the elephant who had moved a few meters forward. “Hurry in now and lock
the door”
the guide told me. I tapped on
the door, “Hey, can you guys unlock
the door.” “Sure, what’s
the rush?” Gina stated as she walked calmly to
the door. I was surprised that Scott and Gina had not heard
the elephant right outside, not even a foot away from
the screen. For such a large animal with big feet I am always surprised how quiet
they are in
the wild. We did finish dinner and I was grateful to get safely back in our tent that night.
The monkeys and baboons were all over
the camp.
The are so cute until you realize that you must watch out for those fast moving creatures. Our first run in with a monkey came at
the lodge when Scott and I had grabbed a piece
of fruit out
of storage for a snack. We had Gina’s apple on
the table waiting for her and we see this cute little monkey coyly approaching us with big beautiful eyes. “Oh. Look at
the monkey.”
Then with one leap to
the table
the beast grabbed
the apple and was
off so fast we did not know what to think.
“Where’s my apple.” Gina stated later as she arrived to
the lodge. “Too late.” Scott replied. “Monkey got it.”
Then a couple days later one
of the two nuisances destroyed our front porch. It was obvious
they had tried to get into
the tent but we had it locked.
They did however, defecate all over our bathroom which had an open air ceiling. After learning
their tricks and knowing when to clap our hands or alert
their presence
of staff we found that
they could be managed.
Ralph was also right about it being hot in
the in South Luangwa. Everyday it was between 40 and 49 degrees Celsius; That’s 100 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. This is
the hottest part
of the year, before
the rains. Most wildlife was huddled near any body
of water left. Baby impala and puku had a difficult time surviving due to
the heat and lack
of water. Drives were scheduled to avoid
the hottest part
of the day. Morning drives were scheduled between six and ten.
We would have tea at 3:30 in
the afternoon and start our night drive promptly by four. Vehicles had to leave
the park at eight in
the evening. We spent most
of the afternoon hours in
the pool. Gina and I started wearing our swimsuits to
the morning drive so we could hop right in
the pool when we returned.
The sunsets were glorious and after dark
the spotter used a white light to search for
the wildlife. Early morning and after dark was
the best time to find
the cats.
They, like us, wanted to be in
the shade during
the day.
The night, however, was
the best time to view a kill as
the cats had an eyesight advantage after dark.
On our drives we also saw crocs, giraffes, zebras, impalas,
albino frogs, three genets, a civet, mongoose, porcupines, hyenas, puku
antelope, a water monitor, kudus, water bucks and bush bucks.
The kudu were wonderful tan colored, deer-like creatures with vertical ivory stripes.
The large and rare water buck had a big circle around it’s tail. It was five drives or nearly eighteen hours
of searching to find
the animal I most wanted to see.
“South Luangwa is your best chance to see
the Leopard.” Ralph, from
the Asilia Camp, had told me when I was in Kenya. And we found it just when I had almost given up hope.
Just before sunset Alan, our guide, stopped
the car and looked to
the distance. During
the drives, especially in
the daylight, I have spotted most
of the animals
right away. I look out and see nothing. I turn my head to Alan to see
what direction he is looking. I turn back and still see nothing.
The spotter in
the back says something to
the guide and we wait and scan
the land. Finally Alan says, “Leopard. I am sure
of it.”
“Where?” I reply. “It has to be over
there. See where
the impalas are looking.” He continues, “I first heard
the screech in
the distance
of the baboons. Now, hear
the impala’s
they are whistling to each o
ther.” I did not notice
the call
of the baboons to be any different than in
the camp when
they had gotten excited but I clearly heard a short whistle coming from
the impalas.
I had not heard that sound before in Africa. “How do you know it is a
leopard and not a something else? If it is a leopard why aren’t
they running.” Alan replied,
“
The leopard is alone and
they are faster than
the leopard. As long as
they know where he is,
they can outrun it.
The leopard must have
the element
of surprise to be successful. That is why
they usually don’t hunt during
the day,
they wait for
the night to hunt when
the impala can’t see as well.
The leopard’s advantage at night is in it’s ability to see in
the dark.”
We continue to stare
off into
the direction
the impalas are looking; Towards
the dry
vegetation. “Can we get any closer?” I hear from behind. A minute
later I hear Ilya again. “Can we get any closer?” Ilya and Marian have
been on all
of our drives with Alan.
They have meetings in
the capitol but came up to South Luangwa for a side trip while
they are in
the country.
Ilya started taking pictures as a hobby but has had pictures appear in
the National Geographic magazine. He had
the biggest camera lens I have ever seen in my life. I turned and saw Alan contemplate his question. “You can’t get over
there. Can you?” I reply.
There is a strict policy
of no
off-road driving in
the game reserve. I could not see a road leading us to where
the impalas were looking. Alan replies, “I don’t see a way.”
A moment later, Alan starts
the car and turns on
the cracked cotton dirt with large splits earth.
The Land Rover bumps up and down. I didn’t realize how deep
the fissures in
the earth were until that moment. Up, down, up, down
the vehicle stops in a crevice. Alan restarts
the vehicle. I hold on to
the handle bar in front
of me. And look out
the side
of the Land Rover where
the door would be. Alan had me sit in
the spotters seat that trip.
The side doors and windshield had been removed to allow for easy viewing
of animals and tracks in
the dirt.
Now it gave me a clear view
of the earth as
the vehicle tipped sideways in ano
ther fissure in
the earth. I think to myself, “Oh no, we are going to be stuck here.” And I wonder if our guide will get in trouble for going
off road.
Then I think to myself. “I am a sitting duck to that leopard out
there.” I hold my breath. Alan restarts
the engine and we are half way to
the location
the impala’s were watching. We move forward. “
There it is.”
I look ahead and finally see a hind leg and tail
of the crouching leopard moving quickly to
the small thicket
of dried brush. I can not believe how his coat blends in with his environment. We are about half way to
the brush from where we left
the road. I can’t believe that this is
the second time in my journey a guide broke
the rules for something I really wanted to see.
“I am afraid it’s gone.” Alan says as we drive closer to
the thicket. “I didn’t see it leave
the thicket.
There is a blind spot where we couldn’t see but it could be
there.” I reply. We turn gradually left and make our way around
the small thicket.
The passenger side, my side,
of the vehicle is towards
the five meter in diameter brush we saw
the leopard run toward.
All eyes were on
the brush; Cameras ready.
Then I hear a deep, long roar which ended in a high pitch and I was eye to eye with
the leopard. Faster than a snap
of a finger
the leopard pivoted and ran in
the opposite direction. I didn’t even lift my camera at first as I realized my feet were about three meters from that leopard.
There was a split second I had thought I was going to be its meal.
As it pivoted I saw
the incredible strength in it’s hind legs. Every muscle worked in perfect unison to go from zero to a full sprint instantaneously.
The feet all came toge
ther an out so quickly. I stood up, turned and just watched.
Then, I remembered my camera. I snapped two pictures and
then he was gone. It was a large male and he was so big, so fast. I had seen
the leopard and he was beautiful.
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