Luangwa: Jack Fasari on Zambia and Walking Safaris

Why Jack likes both

It rained in mid June, not just a little rain but an enormous Biblical downpour for a couple of days. Some areas had over 100mm and quite a number of safari operators were caught out ending up getting their vehicles well and truly bogged in places they shouldn’t have. Some even had to get tractors to pull them out.

Not only that, but the flood that hit Maun is the highest for decades. There is water in places where it was only ever seen if the sprinklers were on. So I take my hat off to the old beardies who predicted this year would be a big one, they were right and doesn’t the delta and surrounding areas look fantastic.

Lake Ngami which hasn’t filled for years is not only getting water from the North, near Toteng but also, because at last the dam built by the mining companies to direct water down the Boteti river only, has been bulldozed away and the Nhabe River is once again flowing into the lake from the East.

The Zambezi is pumping like I haven’t seen it in years as well. Paradoxically this makes the white-water rafting a bit tame, due to the sheer volume of water smoothing out all the rapids.

However the jet-boating below the falls is fantastic and if you are going to Livingstone or the town of Victoria Falls then you have to see the actual falls from the air. It is the only way to get a true view of just how magnificent they actually are especially with the billions of gallons going over them at the moment and the best way to do it as far as I am concerned is in a microlight.

Yes this does sort of resemble a lawnmower engine attached to a kite, but it flies low and slow and you really are out there, in the breeze, so you get to see and really get a feel for the full, awesome power of the falls as the water plunges over the edge and it’s not as wet as walking around the falls, which believe me is quite wet at the moment.

Talking of walking. It is all very well sitting on a safari vehicle being driven by a good looking, knowledgeable safari guide, but if you really want to get down and dusty and experience Africa from a prey’s eye point of view you can’t beat a bit of a stroll in the bush. Not many places cater for walking in the wilderness, although there are quite a few places in South Africa, but let’s be honest walking where there is no dangerous game is a bit tame.

To make a walking safari exciting there needs to be at least the hint of a bit of danger, a decent dose of adrenaline when something crashes away unseen, into the bushes, a frisson of excitement as you slowly approach a group of elephant bulls or buffalos, a quickening of the heart and a fluttering of the guts when you see that first, fresh lion track on the path you are walking - otherwise what’s the point.

Zambia has a very well deserved reputation for running probably the best walking safaris in Africa. Pioneered years ago by a guy called Norman Carr and his associates in the Luangwa valley the Zambians have it down to a fine art nowadays.

It takes a lot to beat the sheer pleasure of stretching your legs in the bush of South Luangwa National Park. There are various companies you can go with Norman Carr Safaris obviously, Shenton Safaris and Robin Pope Safaris to name a few. The last time I was there we walked around about 8km (5miles) every morning, arriving hot and not a little sweaty but exhilarated by our experiences at a different camp every lunchtime to be reunited with our bags, cold beers, showers and our tents or grass chalets.

Game driving in the afternoons and some fabulous night drives, where I think the group managed to see leopards (plural) every night was just the right balance for everyone, I am not a big fan of night drives but for some reason they seem to turn up much more stuff in South Luangwa than elsewhere or maybe I have just been lucky, you need a bit of that on a safari.

If you can’t stretch to a full walking safari but are in Livingstone in Zambia one very good option is to go for a walk in the Mosi o Tunya National Park. A morning’s mooch around this great little park is well worth putting aside a few hours for. I took my group with Livingstone Walking Safaris (how did they come up with that name?) who were superb, the pick-up was bang on time we had a great guide who started off the walk with tea, coffee, muffins and a very reassuring safety talk and not only did hairy-chested Jack Fasaris have to hide from elephants much to the groups amusement but we walked so close to giraffe I realise it is the only way guests can actually appreciate how tall they are and just how graceful such a big animal actually is.

There was loads of other stuff to see and our guide seemed to spot it all from the biggest hippo to the smallest insects and he had something to say about everything (it’s what us guides are good at!) We got a good butchers (look) at a herd of buffalo and best of all we got to see a rhino close up, and that was just about the high point, not only for the group but for me as well. On top of all that (apart from the muffins obviously) I felt that I’d walked off a bit of that fat accumulated in the Landcruiser over the last few weeks and therefore thoroughly deserved my enormous chocolate drenched afternoon tea at The Royal Livingstone Hotel.

http://planyoursafari.com/blog/jack-fasari-on-zambia-and-walking-safaris/