A gentle voice outside the tent-flap murmurs: 'Morning, morning.' During the night, hyenas whooped and howled persistently, so close behind the camp that their mournful wails seemed to rattle the guy ropes and, from time to time, lions roared. But now, just before dawn, absolute silence reigns.
Trunk enthrall: Elephants and buffalo cross the Luangwa River in Zambia
Hot water has arrived in each washing bowl. Breakfast is ready on the riverbank: tea, coffee, porridge and toast, cooked over a fire of mopane wood, which gives the food a special tang. We eat quickly, on our feet, watching the eastern sky start to glow, until a huge ball of fiery crimson climbs over the horizon and sets the surface of the river alight.
By 6.15am we are on our way. 'Keep behind me in single file,' says our leader, Robin Pope. 'If anything starts to happen, stay bunched together. Don't run.'
Out front is our escort scout, Piela Nandila, armed with a loaded .375 rifle. Next comes Robin, then the six of us, and at the back our tea-carrier Jonathan Mbao, swinging a fearsome machete.
Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/travel/article-1213066/Zambia-safaris-Elephants-baboons-walk-wild-stunning-South-Luangwa.html#ixzz0RbsQTEQd
